Delali linen dials

My first real contribution.

Most of the watch components I've built to date have been entirely sourced. These linen dials will be the first components I actually make and hand-finish myself.

They start with raw material, specifically blank brass, and end as a beautiful, lacquered linen dial. Each one unique, a fingerprint of its own. Modern watchmaking has gotten very good at perfect: enamel, lacquer, sunray brushing. I'm focusing first on the different register, a dial that still carries the grain of the hands that made it. My hands.

Progress

The experiments, so far.

Experiment 01

The first pass at working a linen grain into a brass blank by hand.

Full dialThe first dial from that first experiment. From a distance, the linen texture is still faint — barely visible.

The first dial

The first dial from that first experiment. From a distance, the linen texture is still faint — barely visible.

MacroThe same dial, magnified. Up close you can see more of the woven grain I'm starting to form by hand.

Up close

The same dial, magnified. Up close you can see more of the woven grain I'm starting to form by hand.

CuringA pair of dials from that first experiment, set out to cure.

Out to cure

A pair of dials from that first experiment, set out to cure.

Experiment 02

A slightly coarser brushing pass, sealed under a thinner lacquer, aiming for more texture than the first experiment. Closer to what I'm after, but not quite there yet.

Full dialThe full dial from the second experiment, with a coarser linen grain than the first.

The second dial

The full dial from the second experiment, with a coarser linen grain than the first.

MacroThe same dial, magnified. The weave is deeper, though still not quite the result I want.

Up close

The same dial, magnified. The weave is deeper, though still not quite the result I want.

Experiment 03

Mixed results, and a turning point. One dial held up well under a thin, clear lacquer. A second attempt at a cream-tinted lacquer bubbled during cure and barely shifted the color I was after — enough to send me back to reconsider the lacquering step, and to start weighing plating in addition to the hand-applied texture.

RawTwo raw blank dials, before any hand-finishing.

Before any work

Two raw blank dials, before any hand-finishing.

PairThe two results side by side: linen texture under a thin clear lacquer on the left, a cream-tinted lacquer attempt on the right. The cream lacquer bubbled during cure and didn't shift the color as much as I'd hoped.

Clear vs. cream

The two results side by side: linen texture under a thin clear lacquer on the left, a cream-tinted lacquer attempt on the right. The cream lacquer bubbled during cure and didn't shift the color as much as I'd hoped.

MacroClose up on the clear-lacquer dial. Texture holds up well, no bubbling.

The clear lacquer

Close up on the clear-lacquer dial. Texture holds up well, no bubbling.

MacroClose up on the cream-lacquer dial, showing the bubbling that made this attempt a miss.

The cream lacquer

Close up on the cream-lacquer dial, showing the bubbling that made this attempt a miss.

The finishes

Creme, Champagne, Charcoal.

Renders of the finish I'm aiming for on each colorway — the goal, not yet the hand-worked result. The progress above shows where the real dials stand today.

Creme Linen — Solid brass, satin creme over linen texture (rendered concept)

Creme Linen

Solid brass, satin creme over linen texture

The most restrained of the three. A warm, chalky creme that reads quietly against a dress shirt or a field jacket alike.

Diameter
28.5mm
Feet
Drilled to order
Finish
Satin creme
Champagne Linen — Brass with a pale champagne wash (rendered concept)

Champagne Linen

Brass with a pale champagne wash

The softest of the three. A pale wash over the texture keeps it quiet on the wrist while the weave still catches raking light.

Diameter
28.5mm
Feet
Drilled to order
Finish
Satin champagne
Charcoal Linen — Deep charcoal over a heavy linen texture (rendered concept)

Charcoal Linen

Deep charcoal over a heavy linen texture

The coarsest weave of the set. It holds a near-black that never goes flat, and gives applied indices something to sit against.

Diameter
28.5mm
Feet
Drilled to order
Finish
Matte charcoal